At least we learned to live with potholes in the roads, non-running trains, and frozen outside taps for a time.

But severe frosts in wine-growing countries at the wrong time of year can have dramatic and long-lasting effects.

The beginning of the growing season for last year's vintage in New Zealand, for example, was hit by a very frosty start in two world-famous wine-producing regions.

In Hawkes Bay, one exceptionally cold night caused significant damage to unprotected vineyards, with major reductions in production reported as a result. In the Marlborough region, however, damage was somewhat more limited.

Fortunately for Villa Maria, one of the country's leading producers, some of whose 2008 vintages are now on the shelves, its own vineyards and grape-growers contracted to it were relatively unscathed.

This winery, founded some 40 years ago, has won more awards than any other in the country, and I've always found the quality of its products consistently high.

Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (13 per cent, from £8.49, Waitrose, Tesco, Sainsbury's, Oddbins, Thresher and Majestic) has crystal clear, up-front tastes of citrus and gooseberries, with grassy garden aromas, all bursting from the bottle.

This is a lovely crisp, clean white, absolutely perfect for sea-food - even humble fish and chips. It lives up to the reputation of the founder, George Fistonich, whom I recall was described in a completely-independent international wine review a year or two ago as being motivated as much by a desire to make great wine as he was to make a profit.

Pinot noir is a classic Burgundy grape, but the New Zealand versions taste completely different from what is created in the French region on the other side of the world. Not necessarily better or worse, but different.

Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir 2007 (13.5 per cent, from £10.99, Sainsbury's and Tesco) has deep aromas of black cherries and raspberries, which surge forward in the taste, tickled by spice.

Added complexity no doubt came from ten months' maturation in oak. The 'private bin' range has pulled in a lot of awards, and is now popular all round the world. A good wine to accompany a well-ripened Camembert, followed maybe by a slice of sound Cheddar, removed from the fridge at least a couple of hours before consumption.

The 2005 growing season in Hawkes Bay got off to a much better start than the one I mentioned earlier, with a warm, dry spring - conditions which continued right through the early part of the summer. Cooler temperatures which followed were reported to have resulted in a period of slow ripening, enhancing flavours.

Vidal Estate Natural Ferment Chardonnay 2005 (13.5 per cent, from £7.99, DK Vintners, Billingshurst, and www.nzhouseofwine.co.uk) was made with indigenous natural yeasts. Rich tropical fruit and lemon and ripe apricot flavours, with a creamy background.

Complexity is not a quality frequently associated with some of the New World chardonnays, but it exists here, maybe partly down to the natural fermentation, which takes place at a slower rate than the more conventional method. Six months were spent on 'stirred yeast lees'.

Esk Valley Black Label Chenin Blanc 2008 (14 per cent, from £8.49, www.nzhouseofwine.co.uk and www.everywine.co.uk) is the product of two separate vineyard sites in Hawkes Bay.

Its dry, fruity style mixes ripe apples with more exotic tastes and a faint hint of honey. I would happily enjoy it with an omelette - sole ingredients good butter and good eggs - with crusty bread and a green salad.



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