October 1 is the start of the pheasant shooting season - a traditional part of the rural scene for generations, and a key component of its economy.

Although not personally interested in shooting - although supporting the view that there's nothing wrong with it so long as the right people get shot - it would be hypocritical of me to criticise it, as someone who eats game, in the form of pheasants, partridges, venison and rabbits.

Deer and rabbits have to be shot for commonsense reasons, as their numbers can escalate alarmingly, and result in widespread damage to trees and crops.

Given a choice between being reincarnated as a pheasant or a battery chicken, I would certainly choose the former, in preference to the short, brutish existence of the latter.

A suitably hung pheasant (and without the hanging, you might as well be eating a tough old hen) has a slightly gamey taste, but not too strong, and so is best accompanied by a lighter style of red wine, or even a white.

A decent pinot noir is an attractive accompaniment, preferably a French one, as some New World versions incline towards the blockbuster.

This is the black grape used to make white wine for champagne, but its greatest fame is down to its role in Burgundies.

A classic version, with black cherries, strawberries and oaky memories of six months in casks, is provided by Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2007 (12.5 per cent, £9.99, Tesco, Thresher, Wine Rack and www.everywine.co.uk).

The grapes come from selected vineyards across the region, and the wine has layers of fruity flavour and a light, flowery aroma. Best drunk cool, not cold, after just a brief stay in the fridge.

From pinot noir to gamay, the grape of Beaujolais, and Louis Jadot Combe aux Jacques Beaujolais-Villages 2008 (12.5 per cent, £8.99, Waitrose, Tesco, Budgens and www.everywine.co.uk).

This beguiling, lively wine would also go well with pheasant, sporting fresh, cherry flavours and a touch of black peppers. Again, should undergo light cooling, and it would complement nice cheeses as well as the main course.

A white option for a pheasant, partridge or grouse - and rabbit, as well - is Louis Jadot Chateau des Jacques Clos de Loyse Bourgogne 2007 (13 per cent, £11.99, Wimbledon Wine Cellars and www.everywine.co.uk).

This is a white Burgundy in the form of an elegant, dry chardonnay, full and rounded, with buttery apple, peach and pear tastes, adorned by seven months spent on oak barrels.

I rated this highly, and while it would partner game dishes very adequately, I would enjoy a glass on its own, before a meal, to savour its attractions. It's a single vineyard wine, from an estate in the Moulin a Vent.



Recipe

Pheasant breast with creme fraiche and apple

This recipe is for two people, although coming from a household where large appetites are the norm, I would double it for two.

Preparation time is 10 minutes and cooking time the same.

Ingredients: 1 tbsp olive oil; 2 pheasant breasts; 1 small eating apple, peeled, cored and cut into 12 wedges; 100ml chicken stock; 2 tbsp crème fraiche; 2 tbsp fresh parsley, finely chopped.

Method: Put the oil in a small heavy-based frying pan over a high heat. Season the pheasant breasts well and place in the pan. Cook for 2-3 minutes on each side or until just cooked through and nicely browned. Set aside on a plate to rest for 5 minutes, covering with foil to keep warm.

Meanwhile, place the apple wedges in the pan and cook for 1 minute on each side or until golden brown. Add the chicken stock and cook for 5 minutes or until the sauce reduces by about two thirds and the apple is tender. Turn the heat right down then stir in the crème fraiche and parsley. Season to taste. Cut the pheasant breasts into 4 diagonal slices and return to the pan, with any juices, to warm through. Serve with stewed red cabbage.

Tip: Add a splash of cider to the sauce for a more complex flavour.


Robust reds

The upfront flavours of good quality New World wines are always reckoned to be ideal for barbecue fare. But they also go well with red meat game such as venison, usually on sale in our local farmers' markets.

I like roast venison, as well as steaks and sausages - well-flavoured, lean meat, crying out for a robust red wine to wash them down.
Nobilo Hawke's Bay Merlot 2008 (13.5 per cent, £8.49, or three for the price of two, at Thresher) comes from a New Zealand producer which has been in business for more than 65 years.

Smooth, concentrated red berry and redcurrant flavours, with hints of oak.

It's a very easy-drinking wine, silky in character, and the three for two deal makes it well worth considering.

Australia's Banrock Station Shiraz Mataro 2008 (14 per cent, Asda, Thresher, Iceland, Sainsburys, Tesco and Waitrose), which won a gold medal in the Decanter world wine awards, is a powerful, fulsome red.
Red berries, fruit gums, spices and plums are there, in this rich, strong blend, sitting comfortably in the mid-price range.


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