It's the time when young men's fancy is supposed to lightly turn to thoughts of love, as buds burst open and leaves unfold.

Older men have to make do with other distractions, and one of them is the pleasure of seeing new wines - from grapes harvested last year - sprouting up on retailers' shelves.

Five brand-new offerings from Argentina have recently arrived in the UK, in plenty of time for Easter, all produced from organically grown grapes, and, unusually, including a sparkling chardonnay - sparking wines from this part of the world don't turn up very often.

All five carry the Santa Julia label, named after the only daughter of Jose Zuccardi, boss of Familia Zuccardi, one of Argentina's leading producers.

Quantity rather than quality used to be the keyword in this part of the world, with vast amounts of wine being turned out - most of it consumed by the Argentinians themselves.

But a strong desire to boost exports has led to major strides forward in quality over recent years, and Jose Zuccardi has been at the forefront of these efforts.

He once told me in a face-to-face interview in Chichester that it was something he felt passionately about, and he has dedicated tremendous efforts to achieving success.

His own business has been working for the past decade on a project to convert all of its vineyards to organic production, with some 200 hectares - 741 acres - currently officially certified organic.

Argentina is best known for the malbec grape, but the spread of varieties in these vineyards shows some of the others which the country has at its disposal. They include chardonnay, torrontes, bonarda, sangiovese, tempranillo and cabernet sauvignon.

Santa Julia Sparkling Organica (12.5 per cent, £8.99, Oddbins), made with grapes picked in the first week of February, 2008, is the first Argentinian sparkling wine I have tasted.

It's a golden-green chardonnay, with crisp, quite delicate, creamy apple and pear tastes, and a fresh citrus element.

An attractive aperitif before a spring Sunday lunch.

The vines were grown on a former desert, irrigated with water from the Andes mountains.

Santa Julia Organica Chardonnay 2008 (13 per cent, £6.99, Haslemere Wine Merchants) is from a harvest completed in the first week of March, 2008.

It is golden yellow in colour, with hints of Granny Smith apples and grapefruit - dry and medium-bodied, but with just a hint of honey.

Would be fine served with sea-food dishes or poultry.

Santa Julia Organica Bonarda-Sangiovese 2008 (13 per cent, £6.99, Waitrose and Vintage Roots) is an equal blend of two classic Italian varieties, each fermented separately.

It's a soft, very fruity wine, with cherries, plums, strawberries and violets.

Santa Julia Organica Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 (13.5 per cent, £6.99, Haslemere Wine Merchants) was harvested almost exactly a year ago this week.

Dark red in colour, it's redolent with blackcurrants and black cherries, with a little spice in there as well.

Well-balanced, and easy-drinking, it would be ideal with spring lamb, that tender and delicious seasonal treat.

Torrontes is a grape unique to Argentina, and not to be seen that often in the UK.

Santa Julia Organica Torrontes 2008 (13 per cent, £6.99, Vintage

Roots) has a pale yellow hue, touched with green, and a lively, fresh citrus and nectarine flavour, with hints of aromatic herbs and a flowery bouquet. It reminded me of a fragrant dessert wine, but without the sweetness.

Pleasant and civilised to drink on its own, or with light salads and pastas.


Special offers at Tesco until April 14 include Gerard Bertrand Black Grenache and Gerard Bertrand Muscat Sec, both down from £5.99 to £4.49.

Nicolas Feuillatte Champagne is down from £23.98 to £17.98.



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