Although 2009 is still with us, the first wines from this year's vintage have just arrived from South America.

These were made from grapes picked in February and March. And the reason their arrival is good news is that very young wines are reckoned to be at the peak of their health-giving properties, unlike older vintages which have remained in the bottle for years.

Further encouraging information is that they are from the Mendoza region of Argentina, one of those high altitude locations where the grapes absorb higher quantities of key components from sunshine through their skins.

So while not actually guaranteeing immunity from swine flu, measles, athlete's foot, or whatever, they should do us a bit of good.

This is subject to the usual caveats from the Government about the dangers of excessive consumption, although it still has no qualms about scooping up millions in tax revenues from alcohol every year, on the spurious grounds that it is doing us a favour by making it too expensive for us to drink too much.

Maybe the MPs who inflict this taxation on us - while quaffing taxpayer-subsidised glassfuls in their dining rooms and bars - should be asking themselves why many other countries don't have the problems we do with irresponsible drinking, even though tax levels are often much lower than in the UK.

Meanwhile, I have just soothed my irritation with a tasting of five brand-new Argentinian bottles - red, white and rose.

Despite the worldwide economic climate, I read the other day that this country's wine exports increased by 14 per cent between January and July this year.

A rival Chilean producer suggested one reason could be Argentina's much stronger 'country ID,' with football, Buenos Aires and the tango.

Next year, exports are expected to increase to 4.3m hectolitres, which is some wine lake - almost an inland sea, in fact.

Santa Julia Organica Bonarda Sangiovese 2009 (13 per cent, £6.99, Waitrose) is a 50-50 blend of these two organically grown grapes.

They are Italian varieties, and this South American version is a soft-medium-bodied red, with an attractive fruit-filled style offering ripe cherries and strawberries.

With Hallowe'en parties and Bonfire Night looming, this is one to bear in mind for those sausages and burgers, to ward off the encroaching chill out in the garden watching fireworks.

An eight-hour contact with grape-skins has provided the deep and vibrant pink hue of Santa Julia Syrah Rose 2009 (13.5 per cent, £5.29, Somerfield).

This is a dry rose, with concentrated tastes of wild strawberries and raspberries, and touches of spice.

I always associated rose with summer, so this is by way of being the last of the summer wine. But even with the nights drawing in, it's fine as a cool aperitif or as an accompaniment for poultry or rice-based dishes.

From pink to white, and the dry, crisp Santa Julia Pinot Grigio 2009 (13.5 per cent, £5.99, Waitrose).

This has a light, floral aroma, and apple, melon and pineapple flavours.

The grapes were picked in the last week of February, while we in the UK were shivering in the cold and wet. Ideal with fish or fowl, or on its own.

Even more intense tropical fruit is on offer in the greeny-gold Santa Julia Viognier 2009 (13.5 per cent, £6.99, Waitrose).

This classic French grape variety is now highly fashionable, after languishing in relative obscurity for many years.

This Argentinian version is a complex mix of banana, pear and apple, with a light, peachy, flowery bouquet.

It would add a bit of style and class to a Chinese takeaway, or pasta dishes.

Finally, a grape believed to be indigenous to Argentina, picked in late March.

Santa Julia Torrontes 2009 (13.5 per cent, £7.99, or three for the price of two at Threshers) is a bright, light yellow colour.

It is aromatic, and fresh and dry in character, with pears and hints of herbs. A very appealing aperitif, or just right to complement a solid plateful of chip shop fish and chips. Down with food snobbery, I say.


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