PETER HOMER More and more people detect the fine wines from Bergerac

But in more recent times, things have been changing, mainly due to huge capital investment and a new generation of innovative winemakers.

A lot more people in the UK are discovering the wines of Bergerac are, as the old Michelin guides used to say about restaurants, well worth a detour. Atlhough so close to Bordeaux, the region has a distinctive identity of its own, and is not only able to produce quality top-end of the market offerings, but decent, sound wines for everyday drinking in the mid-price range.

Up there in the good-quality league, and very similar to an elegant claret from its celebrated neighbour, is Chateau de Tiregand Pecharmant 2006 (13 per cent, £11.50, Tanners Wine Merchants, www.tanners-wines.co.uk)

This is from Bergerac’s most ancient vineyard, run by descendants of the same family as Antoine de Saint-Exupery, the French author and airman, best known for his haunting allegorical work The Little Prince.

It’s a fine, rich red wine, with lots of blackcurrants and smooth tannins, with hints of spices and herbs. The blend is merlot – contributing the fulsome smoothness – cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and a little malbec. Recommended.

Strong, aromatic tastes featuring citrus and pears come in Chateau Le Payral Bergerac Sec 2008 (12.5 per cent, £6.29, The Bottle Bank, www.bottlebankwine.co.uk).

This is one of those white wines which are perfect to drink with food, a great match for white meat and mild, creamy cheeses. Sauvignon blanc, semillon and muscadelle.

Also pretty good value for money is another white, Pavillon de la Brie Bergerac Sec 2009 (12 per cent, £6.95, Jascots, www.jascots.co.uk).

A bright, lively, fresh sauvignon blanc, laden with ripe goosberries, it reminded me of Sancerre, which would have a considerably higher price-tag. A great partner for seafood.

Summer may be over, but memories linger on with roses like Foncaussade Les Parcelles Bergerac 2009 (12.5 per cent, £6.64, Waitrose).

This pale, dry rose has a lot of fresh summer fruits, most notably strawberries. The blend is half and half cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

Bergerac produces a quality dessert wine called Monbazillac, which years ago posed serious competition to the most famous in France – Sauternes and Barsac – and is now reported to be increasingly doing so again.

I was impressed by Domaine de l’Ancienne Cure l’Abbaye Monbazillac2005 (12.5 per cent, £19.45 for 50cl www.slurp.co.uk and £275.39 for a case of 12 50cl bottles at everywine.co.uk).

It is a lovely deep gold colour, with voluptuous honey, ripe apricot and peach tones. The texture is opulent and lush, which makes you think you are drinking liquid gold.